25.5.07

Burn, baby burn...

So, yesterday I ventured into Chabahil, which is an neighborhood in Kathmandu, to pick up one last pair of shoes for Surendra, one of the oldest kids at the DRC. Not only is his English excellent, he is wildly bright, full of life and I think the best bargainer I have ever met. While he is a thin, 14-year old, his demeanor and level of seriousness is that of an adult man when it comes to shopping. The microbus would only take us part of the way because there was a "program" taking place. It was a protest in a very busy intersection. As we walked closer and closer, we could see huge clouds of black smoke lofting through the air. (As a side note, it's very common for people to burn garbage here, so I'm used the smell of strange things burning now.) There was a protest for the Prime Minister to resign (as another side note, he's an 80 year old man that's been in office for ages and sounds like he is quite clever, but perhaps not that effective anymore). There are hundreds of people and some police all in the mix and the burning is 3 large rubber tires in the middle of the street. I'm not sure that burning toxic materials is the best way to attract people to your protest, but I'm not protest advocate, so.... However, the mobilization was interesting to witness and in a country where 8 different political parties can't agree and even organizing the national election process is a huge process, I support their efforts.

A new volunteer arrived this week. Maiko is from Japan and people always find us an interesting pair. We explain that she is from Japan and I'm a Japanese American. She's very sweet, from Kyoto, but attending college in Michigan. She's jumped right into the flow at the DRC with lots of enthusiasm and it's been good fun.

Since my ankle has been healing, I haven't taken the kids on any walks, as I'm just not confident pushing any wheelchairs up the steep, rocky hills. So, 2 days ago, she took the kids out for a walk and about 18 kids went in all. Not knowing the area, the kids ignored my suggestion of taking her on a less strenuous walk, they ventured up the super steep hill to the Gumba Buddhist monastery. It was quite a climb for her first walk, but she's a trooper. On the way down the hill, one of the kids got carried away and accidentally, one of the girls her wheelchair fell out. She broke her arm and got a concussion. Poor Gita.... She's better now, but it gave us all quite a scare. We have learned some valuable lessons about what the children are capable of. Honestly, I have seen these kids do things that make my heart jump, but they are completely capable and have no problems. My level of trust and comfort for what they can do in wheelchairs has really grown. They also take care of each other in such a loving and helpful way, it seems that they are looking out for eachother. However, accidents do happen...

As a treat, I took 12 of the tween age kids to the local market to shop. They each spent 200 rupees ($3 USD) and could buy whatever they chose. Looking back to my tween years, I'm sure that when I got money to spend freely, I bought candy, went to movies, toys or other odds and ends. These kids chose shirts, belts, watches, backpacks, a few little transistor radios, and scarves. It was fun to go with them. Of course, Surendra went along and was an awesome bargainer, making sure we got the most for our money. It was a very productive and fun shopping excursion.

I'm in my last week in Kathmandu and the thought of saying goodbye to these kids makes my heart tear, but hopefully, I'll come back this way someday. Hope you are all happy and healthy!

Namaste!

22.5.07

Strikes, steep hills, sprained ankles and knittin sessions!

Namaste from Jorpati!

The monsoon season is just around the corner and storms of thunder, lightening and buckets of rain fall on a daily basis. I have learned how to handwash my own laundry and I think the monsoon storms give my clothes an extra rinse.

My volunteerism in Kathmandu has fallen into a regular pattern now. I wake, have breakfast a cup of coffee, read the English Kathmandu Post paper, then head to the DRC. Nepal is experiencing a nation-wide teacher's strike currently and over 7.6 million children aren't going to school. (The private teachers have been receiving a very low salary, even lower than the government school teacher's salary and from what I understand, the school owners are pocketing much of the tuition. Since there is no government mandated minimum wage, the private school teachers are being exploited. So, all of the teachers are striking.) A strike means that all of the kids at the DRC are "home" and selfishly, I love it. I know the kids should be getting an education, but I like that they are all at the DRC on a constant basis, as I get to spend more time with them.

A few days ago, I went to pick up the custom made yak leather shoes, purchase 50 pairs of white socks and run some other errands. Surindra, one of the oldest children at the DRC, came along with us. Not only is he a bright, happy, enthusiastic boy, but his English is excellent and he is on the best bargainers I've ever met. Erik, the other DRC volunteer, came with us to help carry the heavy shoes and to buy 2 new custom tailored suits. Surindra, was bargaining up a storm in his beautiful Nepalese. He's only 14, but has the fire in his belly of an old man and is such a delight to be around. We took him to lunch at the Boddnath to thank him for all of his efforts. I also offered to buy him something, anything that he wanted. After some thought, he asked for also a new pair of shoes. Apparently, he got a new pair of school shoes last month, but due to his age, experienced a growth spurt and they were already too small. I happily obliged and then thought about this purchase. Asking any 14-year-old teenager "what would you like?" would respond in buying a new video game, candy, maybe sport equipment, comic books, etc. Surindra, knew that he needed new school shoes and that's what he chose. These kids never cease to amaze me.

We took the shoes back to all of them and it was a fun and exciting process to hand out the new shoes and socks to the little and big ones. They were very thankful and the shoes look beautiful! After the shoe dispensing, they all wanted to go for a walk. So, over 15 kids, with 5 wheelchairs and many crutches set off. They wanted to go to the top of the hill that looks out over the DRC and the holy river, to see the Gumba monastery. I had gone up this same hill a few days before on the back of a motorcycle and was amazed at the steepness of these hills. So, now, here we are a big group of children with two adults on a trek up this super steep, not entirely paved road. All of the children that are capable, always help push (or in some cases pull) the wheelchairs. At one point, Naoli, this amazing child with one leg and a crutch, wanted to push his friend Dhan, in the wheelchair. When, I offered to help, he quickly resisted and pushed my hands away with great force. Then, he put one hand on handle of the wheelchair, put his head down into the soft back of the wheelchair and began pushing Dhan himself, with no complaints and no guff. Everyday, my heart melts for these children who continually amaze me with their love, determination and ambition. This day was no different. As I watched the two boys go ahead of me, I realized that I need these children as much as they need me. I feel so blessed to experience all of this.

At the monastery, we visited with Buddhist monks, who were happy to meet and talk with the children. We also young monks practicing on a horn-like instrument, making sounds similar to a diggeridoo and of course, loved the views. This monastery is so high up on the hill, we could see the Boddnath, the Kathmandu airport and most of the valley that surrounds us. It was gorgeous!

I also took a variety of knitting needles and yarn to the children a few days ago, courtesy of my friends Sarah and Briana in Seattle. Thank you! The goodies were quickly grabbed by the girls and one boy. We spent the afternoon knitting away and as I sat in the midst of the girls, as they knitted and sang Nepalese songs, I relished in the beautiful female energy that surrounded us. They are magnificent!

A few weeks ago, I sprained my ankle, quickly dodging a taxi in Thamel (like most other countries in the world, in Kathmandu, the taxi drivers do want to kill you). My ankle hasn't fully healed and walking the kids up to and back from the Gumba didn't help. The entire trip took 4 hours. Phew! So, I'm taking a few days off to rest my ankle and then will head back to the DRC for more fun. Namaste!

8.5.07

Namaste!

Hello from Kathmandu!

Introduction
I've been in Nepal for about 2 weeks now and still getting situated. The agency, Hope and Home, has been outstanding and so helpful from the moment I stepped out of the airport. The program director, Rabyn has created a relatively inexpensive and comprehensive program that not only integrates the volunteers into the Nepalese culture, but also places people in appropriate project sites.

My first full week, after the safari, I started Nepali language lessons with Youzeena, who is a delightful, smart, funny and beautiful Nepalese college student in Kathmandu. For two hours a day, I have learned the basic language, which has come in handy when bargaining at the markets and trying to communicate with the children of the DRC (Disabled Rehabilitation Center), however, I often wonder if I'm saying the language at all today, as I walked into a cafe and said "Tapaille kasto cha?" or "How are you?" and the man looked at me with great fear. He quickly got his co-worker who brought me a cup of black tea, as I requested.

I stayed in Thamel which is the touristy area of Kathmandu. The shopping and restaurants are great, but a bit expensive, even for Nepalese standards, I think. However, there are lots of convenient features in Thamel.

Youzeena also gave me a culture class which has been so fascinating. I've discovered that I'm a complete culture junkie and being able to learn about the culture and continually ask questions about it as I go along is really rewarding and also helpful to how to best conduct myself on a day-to-day basis. For example, the Nepalese people often eat with their right hand only. A very common dish, daal bhaat, consists of rice, daal (cooked lentils) and curried veggies. It's really delicious! They mix it all together into a sticky mixture, then use the right hand (only) to shovel it with the fingers and the thumb to push it into their mouth. I am highly impressed with this kind of coordination, as I have tried and yes, it's possible, but takes me ages and is also quite messy. Many Nepalese people often never touch their hand to their mouth (as this contaminates the hand, or "jhutho"). Additionally, the Nepalese people follow a caste system. There are many other fascinating cultural differences that I've learned here, too many to write.

In the afternoons, I went on various sight seeing expeditions. On Budda Jayanti (Buddha's birthday), I went to the largest Buddhist stupa in Nepal. It was really amazing. This huge structure had hundreds of prayer flags draped everywhere and it was packed with people. It's proper to walk clockwise around the structure and also nice to spin the several prayer wheels as you walk. The stupa was packed with people on the ground and the ascending levels of the structure, as well. It was his 2551st birthday! Happy Birthday Buddha!

We also visited Pashupati, which houses the most important Hindu temple in Kathmandu. I couldn't enter because I'm not a Hindu, but it was still beautiful to see. (Over half of the Nepalese population is Hindu and a large number is Buddhist). Pashupati is also famous because it's where deceased Hindu people are cremated. We watched a cremation from a distance, but there is a section of the grounds where males of the deceased person prepare a huge fire, then lay the covered body on it to be cremated. Eventually the ashes run into a river below. It was an interesting part of the Hindu culture to witness.

DRC
After a week of language classes and sight seeing, I moved out of Thamel to Jorpati. I moved in with Rabyn's older brother and his family. I met the kids right away, as my new home is just a 20 walk or 10 min. motorbike ride from the center. The children at the DRC range in ages 4-16. The majority of them go to school, but some do not, due to their disabilities. From the moment that I entered the center, I was met with unconditional joy, love and appreciation. These children, some of whom are orphaned and some who's families still see them, face physical and social obstacles, but the energy that pours out of them brings me to near tears on a regular basis. They are AMAZING.

My mornings are spent working with the children that don't attend school, due to their disabilities. Erik, another volunteer and myself are setting up a basic school program that can be continued with each new volunteer that they encounter further down the road. Their learning can be stopped for huge pockets of time if no volunteers are in Nepal, so I want them to be able to practice reading and writing on their own. We are just in the planning and assessment stages of the children, Pema and Gita, two bright and happy girls who spend their days in wheelchairs. We also take them for walks, which is a bit tricky, as not all road are paved and I've learned how to best "drive" a wheelchair, especially up steep, steep hills, down stairs, on gravel and grass... you get the picture. One boy, Bharat, who often comes with us on walks, can manuever his wheelchair alone and gives me mild heart attacks, especially when he is coasting down the steep hill near the DRC, but he is confident and very capable. I am always impressed with his skill and strength.

Yesterday, we had a particularly active walk. Erik and Charlie (both volunteers) and myself took 6 children for walk. Five of them were in four wheelchairs and one walked with us. Bharat was fine on his own and each of us pushed a wheelchair. We walked up the steep hill to a Hindu temple, which they like to visit and saw the river nearby. From the river, we decided to take a different route back to the road to avoid the stairs. The different route, essentially was a series of small streams, steep dirt hills, walking over huge drain pipes and almost entirely wheelchair inaccessible. Thanks to Erik and Charlie, they carried each child over each obstacle and I followed with the wheelchairs. Phew! The kids loved it all and I was happy that we all make it to the road, a little soggy and dirty, but fine and with no injuries. Once on the road, we ventured to a new part of the town, that I hadn't explored. All along the way, people are drying straw in the streets, so we share this skinny part of the uncovered paved road, with the motorcyles, buses and trucks that went by. Everyone slowed down when they saw us and honked less, which was nice. At the top of the hill, we saw a small cow stuck in this narrow gutter. The gutter was big enough for the cow to walk forwards and backwards in, but the cow couldn't get out. So, we parked the wheelchairs and Erik, Charlie and some other locals worked together to pull the cow out. It was an amazing feat and I cheered from the sidelines. Then, we walked a bit further, now in the dead heat of the day and the kids were looking a bit hot and tired, so we headed back to town. We waved a gravel truck down, folded up the wheelchairs and threw them in the back of the truck, the smaller kids sat in the front with the driver and the adults and a few little ones rode in the back, holding onto the wheelchairs. It was great fun and the kids really enjoyed it.

Homestay family
My homestay family consists of Devindra (father), Asha (mother), Susaan (son), Sumeda (daughter), Swedde (niece/cousin), Sividra (Swedde's sister) and the grandparents. They live in a huge home and Erik also lives there. They feed us and really take great care of us. We play card games together and recently, I started a knitting craze with some of the girls. It's been a lot of fun and a great cultural experience.

3rd World Country
Nepal is one of the world's 50 poorest countries. It's a 3rd world country and the average annual income is 12,500 ruppes or about $250 USD. While some people live above this average, many people live far below it. Nepal is quite polluted-garbage on the streets, well, everywhere. The air quality isn't that great in some places and most people live on two meals a day, however, the meal system may be based on culture, not wealth. The roads aren't all paved and some general hygenic practices are different from western culture. There are cows walking around, grazing on grass, garbage or whatever they can find, as it's illegal to kill or harm a cow. However, the culture is rich, years of tradition are evident and religion is a big part of it. What I have loved about this culture is the genuine happiness that people exude. People are friendly, kind and truly wonderful.

In preparation for my volunteerism, I collected monetary donations. Thanks to Mom, Kai, Grandma, Scott and Debbie. In total, I have $275 to donate and that money is going very far. For $1USD, it's approximately 66 rupees. I have been able to buy school supplies, snacks, sports equipment and brand new yak leather school shoes for about 15+ kids. (The last time the DRC bought new school shoes was 2 years ago.) Today, I went with about 20+ kids to get fitted for the shoes and it was quite an excursion. We all piled into a bus and lined up near this tiny (think large closet) of a shop, where each child was fitted. I'll go pick up the shoes next week. I'm still sorting out what the rest of the donations will go to, but I'm learning more about some of the other needs children have for schooling, medical costs, etc.

My Learning Experience
Thus far, I have learned so much about Nepal, a different asian culture, language, food, etc. This country has opened my mind in ways that I didn't know I needed. However, there are some parts of the culture that I haven't full embraced with an open heart. Like many cultures, there is a stigma attached to children with disabilities. As I mentioned, some of the children at the center, do have families that they see on a somewhat regular basis. Some children, do not. Some have been abandoned because of their disability or because their family just can't afford to take care of them. When we take the children out in public, of course we get a lot of stares, but I also think it's important that Nepali people see foreign people helping the children with disabilities, too. In the caste system, the children with disabilities rank quite low and this means that they already have a disadvantage when they get older, leave the DRC and continue schooling or find work. My heart breaks on a regular basis when I think about how much need there really is and how much more work is needed. But, just ask quickly, one of the kids will nuzzle up into my lap, flash me a smile or ask to sing a song and think about how blessed I am to experience this.

Sorry, but the few pictures that are up on the blog, took hours to load, so more pictures will have to come after I leave Nepal. The Internet connection here is slooooow... Lots of love to everyone! Namaste!

3.5.07

Simon's Chinese Adventure!

While I am in Nepal, Simon is venturing through China. Below is a story of one of his adventures that sounds very lively. I believe this took place in Kanding:

I didn't e-mail yesterday as I met some locals when I was sitting in my hostel's cafe. Over a cup of hot yak butter tea, which incidental tastes like feta milk, we struck up a conversation. They spoke no English so I managed to surprise myself. I'm still annoyed with my inability to adequately express myself in Chinese. It was good practice.


There were 3 guys who lived together. All of whom are the same age as me. One of them, Chou Wan, is married to this spitfire of a woman. After getting to know him better I decided that to deal with her was a sign of strength. Chao Wan is in all respects the alpha male, liking his displays. He said that he was a taxi driver and the one of the other guys was his mechanic. The mechanic had surprisingly long and clean finger nails. Their tattoos and scaring led me to suspect something else. They are all ex army, tough as nails, carrying ak47 bayonet flick knives.
They treated me with nothing but respect. To the point of refusing to accept money during gambling. I was a bit of a novelty.


We ate a dinner that Chou Wan cooked and it was exceptional, drank a lot of beer (thank god for my hedonistic youth) and talked. I find that one on one or in a small group I can make myself understood, to some extent any way. They offered me a place to stay for the evening so Chao Wan and myself went and grabbed my gear. Couch surfing here we come!


Four women arrived in the evening each of whom was louder than the previous. Again we ate. The only English they know is 'I love you'. which one girl in particular thought was a great laugh. I couldn't follow the conversation from then on. The ladies drank like 15 year olds at New Years. Sculling back glass after glass, the volume rose. There was some underlying tension between a couple of them. I was made a deal of, the get together was in my honour if you will. Come see the freak. We finished what alcohol there was in the house and headed out to a bar.
We were asked to leave the first bar after about 5 min. This was a group of people with issues. Chao Wan was smiling at me and shaking his head at what I'd walked in to. Of all of them it was him that I made friends with.


The next bar had karaoke. No English for me though. the table was loaded with bottles of beer. All that sang sang well.


As I said before, I had no idea what was going on. I felt relaxed with it though. the bottles were downed. Every one in the bar drank a glass with every one else which made for a lot of glasses. One lady in particular was trying to drink me under the table so I started sneaking tea. People came and went but the core group stayed the same. I popped out to the loo and then for a quiet smoke on the street. Chao Wan came out and we stood and talked for a bit. Him shaking his head at the behaviour of his friends.


We walked back in and all hell had broken loose. The women were screaming banishes. The guys were doing there darnedest to calm things down but not doing a very good job of it. Several glasses were smashed and the bear went flying. Beer bottles with there condense pouring on the ground were used to threaten. Arms grabbed, pushing and the din creschendoed.


Me, I just stood there watching, waiting to grab someone who was going to brain someone else. I felt comfortable enough sitting on the outside looking in. I couldn't have offended any one as I hadn't said much.

After several attempts we got Chao Wan's screaming wife, who had turned on him and they were having there own argument, and another girl out the door. The yelling continued as we walked down the street, heading for some food.


We got back home at about 1:30am. Not too bad really considering. It felt much later. After a coffee I went to bed to read, to sleep. Fortunately I had been given my own room.


All of this amidst the back drop of shear mountains ascending into the clouds, and it was very cold.

2.5.07

Kathmandu!

Namaste! (Which literally means "I greet the divine within you") Every where I go, this how I am greeted. I am also called "sister" all the time, which is very endearing. Needless to say, Kathmandu is really wonderful.

As some of you may know, there is a strong Indian influence in Nepal, but the people seem different from what I understand. I've been in Kathmandu for about a week and am starting to learn the Nepalese language. I am staying in a fairly touristy area, but enjoying it all the same. The streets are not all paved, the traffic is super crazy (even crazier and more dangerous than Taiwan and China), there is a lot of poverty and sometimes electricity cuts out (sometimes while you are in the middle of typing an e-mail or making an addition to your blog), but the people... oh the amazing people... are a constant display of happiness and kindness.

Over the weekend, I visited the Royal Chitwan National Park for a short safari. It was really beautiful, quiet and I was completely surrounded by nature, some tourists and other indigenous villages. On the safari, I went for a jungle walk, took a lovely canoe ride in a dug out tree trunk, saw gorgeous wild animals such as deer, boar, crocodiles, monkeys, many birds and bugs, elephants and rhinos! I also got to meet some delightful baby elephants at the breeding center there. The baby elephants were curious, hungry (for the cookies that the center sold), and so docile. They knew that cookies were coming and came right up to the fence for some treats. They would climb up on the fences if I bribed them with a cookie. One of my fondest memories is the youngest baby, only 6 months old, who wasn't that coordinated, as she stumbled trying to climb the fence, then the cookie didn't seem to get down her throat so well, so she choked a bit, then trumpeted her horn a bit and ran back to be by her mother's side. So cute! Also, I heard a baby elephant fart, as he tried to climb a little embankment, the sound gave me a bit of a surprise, it was really loud!

However, the highlight of the trip was taking a bath with an elephant. For a small fee, I climbed onto the back of an elephant as it waded through the Rapti River and squirted me with river water, then gently rolled over and I fell into the river, over and over again. I fed it bananas and stroked it's rough and hair prickly skin as I stood eye level with the huge beast. It was a really wonderful experience.

Today is the Buddah's birthday, Buddha Jayanti and I am headed to the one of the largest Buddha stupas in all of Asia to see the celebration. More pictures and stories coming soon... The internet is slow here, so it takes a while.

Hugs!