While I am in Nepal, Simon is venturing through China. Below is a story of one of his adventures that sounds very lively. I believe this took place in Kanding:
I didn't e-mail yesterday as I met some locals when I was sitting in my hostel's cafe. Over a cup of hot yak butter tea, which incidental tastes like feta milk, we struck up a conversation. They spoke no English so I managed to surprise myself. I'm still annoyed with my inability to adequately express myself in Chinese. It was good practice.
There were 3 guys who lived together. All of whom are the same age as me. One of them, Chou Wan, is married to this spitfire of a woman. After getting to know him better I decided that to deal with her was a sign of strength. Chao Wan is in all respects the alpha male, liking his displays. He said that he was a taxi driver and the one of the other guys was his mechanic. The mechanic had surprisingly long and clean finger nails. Their tattoos and scaring led me to suspect something else. They are all ex army, tough as nails, carrying ak47 bayonet flick knives.
They treated me with nothing but respect. To the point of refusing to accept money during gambling. I was a bit of a novelty.
We ate a dinner that Chou Wan cooked and it was exceptional, drank a lot of beer (thank god for my hedonistic youth) and talked. I find that one on one or in a small group I can make myself understood, to some extent any way. They offered me a place to stay for the evening so Chao Wan and myself went and grabbed my gear. Couch surfing here we come!
Four women arrived in the evening each of whom was louder than the previous. Again we ate. The only English they know is 'I love you'. which one girl in particular thought was a great laugh. I couldn't follow the conversation from then on. The ladies drank like 15 year olds at New Years. Sculling back glass after glass, the volume rose. There was some underlying tension between a couple of them. I was made a deal of, the get together was in my honour if you will. Come see the freak. We finished what alcohol there was in the house and headed out to a bar.
We were asked to leave the first bar after about 5 min. This was a group of people with issues. Chao Wan was smiling at me and shaking his head at what I'd walked in to. Of all of them it was him that I made friends with.
The next bar had karaoke. No English for me though. the table was loaded with bottles of beer. All that sang sang well.
As I said before, I had no idea what was going on. I felt relaxed with it though. the bottles were downed. Every one in the bar drank a glass with every one else which made for a lot of glasses. One lady in particular was trying to drink me under the table so I started sneaking tea. People came and went but the core group stayed the same. I popped out to the loo and then for a quiet smoke on the street. Chao Wan came out and we stood and talked for a bit. Him shaking his head at the behaviour of his friends.
We walked back in and all hell had broken loose. The women were screaming banishes. The guys were doing there darnedest to calm things down but not doing a very good job of it. Several glasses were smashed and the bear went flying. Beer bottles with there condense pouring on the ground were used to threaten. Arms grabbed, pushing and the din creschendoed.
Me, I just stood there watching, waiting to grab someone who was going to brain someone else. I felt comfortable enough sitting on the outside looking in. I couldn't have offended any one as I hadn't said much.
After several attempts we got Chao Wan's screaming wife, who had turned on him and they were having there own argument, and another girl out the door. The yelling continued as we walked down the street, heading for some food.
We got back home at about 1:30am. Not too bad really considering. It felt much later. After a coffee I went to bed to read, to sleep. Fortunately I had been given my own room.
All of this amidst the back drop of shear mountains ascending into the clouds, and it was very cold.
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